With the 2016 season of Fashion Art Toronto officially underway, last night marked the first evening of shows at Daniels Spectrum. The annual Canadian arts and fashion showcase highlights Canuck contemporary and alternative fashion, with an emphasis on emerging and established local designers. From sultry lingerie collections on to luxurious latex, the first day of FAT 2016 featured a seductive UnDRESS theme which examined the topic of sexuality and fantasy. Here’s a closer look at the latest from the FAT 2016 runways.

WallacePlayford

Founded in 2010 by co-designers Katherine Laird and Jennifer Murtagh, the Toronto-based label explored Japanese femininity in their new collection. Called Neko-pop, WallacePlayford played with the traditional Japanese art movement and featured a quaint kitty cat motif in their designs. Models stormed the catwalk wearing frilly frocks in shades of red and black, thigh-high socks and kimono blouses with dainty prints.

Elizabeth Elwood

Toronto designer Jakelia Elwood founded her line, which is named after her mother Elizabeth, in 2015. For Spring/Summer 2016, the George Brown College fashion design graduate unveiled a collection of bohemian inspired 1970s trends. On the runway, this translated into sheer mid-length frocks detailed with embellishment, white maxi skirts and halter jumpsuits in shades of grey.

With Love Lingerie

Headed by Toronto-based womenswear designer Carrie Russell, With Love Lingerie was founded in 2010. The brand draws its inspiration from decades of the past, including the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s. For this season, Russell revealed a Mercy collection that compared the beautiful stained glass art of the Catholic church to silky smooth fabrics. The runways featured sheer black undergarments accented with red floral embroidery, flowing black dresses, tulle hemlines and cropped lingerie inspired tops.

Starkers Corsetry

Toronto corsetiere and designer Dianna DiNoble launched Starkers Corsetry in 1992, and just launched her new mini collection Undressed Lingerie. Staying true to the evening’s sexy theme, her latest lingerie featured a unique variety of bras and panties. Models graced the runway in glittering pink lingerie, elegant white feathers and lacy black stockings.

Lococina

Ottawa-based designer Helena Jones founded Lococina in 2006, and runs the label in partnership with her sister, Mila Mumuldi. Lococina finds its design inspiration in the early Canadian nomadic lifestyle, and showcased a mix of leather and fur on the catwalks. From slick black leather trousers to furry jackets, the newest designs combined textures and materials.

Henry Navarro

The Toronto-based multidisciplinary artist, designer and Ryerson University School of Fashion assistant professor brought the sunshine of Hawaii to FAT. Navarro’s latest collection, titled Ahola, examined the rich culture of Oahu. The designs ranged from capes and long-sleeved bodysuits to ornate statement necklaces, high-waisted shorts and architectural frocks.

Pinkiebel

Emerging label Pinkiebel was founded by 22-year-old designer Annabel Gerke, who was born in Nashville and moved to Toronto in 2013. Gerke showed her latest collection Homeworld, which focused on a playful theme of home and belonging. Models marched the runway in short pastel-coloured dresses, jumpsuits and rompers with strategic cut-outs and styles with delicately puffed sheer sleeves.

Photos 1-2 and 4-7: Jonathan Hooper

Photo 3: Amanda Skrabucha