With romance in the air as Valentine’s Day rapidly approaches, Real Style chatted with Toronto-based jewellery designer and gemologist Amy Follwell about engagement ring styles. Follwell, who is the owner of the Bijoux By Amy diamond concierge business, was raised in Shannonville, Ontario. After starting her career as a gemologist for Tiffany & Co. in New York City, she later moved to Toronto to launch her own business in 2013. Just in time for the season of love, we caught up with Follwell about popular gemstones, celebrity engagement rings and the Canadian jewellery industry.

Real Style: What are some popular engagement ring stones for this season?

Amy: Although colourless diamonds are most popular, people are beginning to think outside the box in terms of other gemstones to feature in their engagement ring.

Blue sapphires, in particular, are bold and dramatic and are often inspired by the ring adorned by Kate Middleton. Sapphires come in a variety of hues (pink, yellow, etc.) and can be an affordable alternative to fancy coloured diamonds.

Beautiful green emeralds continue to be a truly distinctive choice and offer a vibrant pop of colour.

Blue aquamarines and pink morganites have lighter tones that are subtle and well suited to delicate, romantic ring styles.

Real Style: Are we seeing any emerging trends in engagement rings that will be in place for the next couple of years?

Amy: The popular halo setting continues to be a consistent trend in engagement rings. Because the small accent diamonds bring a lot of sparkle to the ring I think this will continue to be a prevalent design.

Vintage or art-deco-inspired designs seem to be here to stay. They are a perfect choice for those wanting a unique style.

Fancy shaped gemstones like cushion, radiant or oval are being discovered for their distinctive, elegant features.

Incorporating coloured stones into the ring setting. An emerald centre stone or sapphire accents can be a great way to express your personal style and add a bit of vibrancy.

Band variations offer an alternative to the classic metal or diamond band. Split shank, asymmetrical bypass, twist or infinity designs add an extra element of delicate detail.

Real Style: What should everyone look for in a quality engagement ring?

Amy: Don’t sacrifice the quality of the diamond just to get a larger carat size. It’s a wise investment in the long run to purchase a smaller diamond of excellent quality than a larger diamond of fair quality. Aim to buy a diamond with clarity that is “eye-clean” – free from noticeable inclusions. The diamond should not appear yellowish or brownish in colour when viewed from above. And the most important thing to consider is that the cut of the diamond is excellent. This is what determines the amount your stone sparkles and shines!

Larger diamonds should come with their own certification describing its quality and authenticity. Insist that your centre diamond has a report from a reputable gemmological laboratory (ex. GIA).

Whether you decide to have your ring made with gold or platinum, the metal should have a bright polish and the stones securely placed in their setting. Most rings of high quality have seen the hands of many fine craftsmen and will display excellent integrity.

Real Style: Are there any celebrity engagement rings that have inspired your own creations?

Amy: Blake Lively prompted a trend towards oval-shaped gemstones. I’ve had many clients reference her fancy pink diamond engagement ring because they admired the elegance of the oval cut. The elongated shape gives the illusion of greater size so this option also has excellent value.

Many, for obvious reasons, have admired the statement engagement rings belonging to Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian. A large centre diamond set on a delicate band makes it look like the diamond is floating on their hand. I’ve recreated this look with different diamond shapes (round, cushion) and the narrow band really keeps the focus on the centre stone. At a much more reasonable price point, of course!

Real Style: Do you have a personal favourite gemstone that you enjoy working with?

Amy: My personal favourite gemstone (other than diamond!) has to be tanzanite. It is a rare stone found in a single locality in Tanzania. Fine tanzanites are pure blue to intense violet-blue and display strong pleochroism. This means that the stone can look blue or violet depending on your viewing angle. Its rich colour is truly elegant and mesmerizing!

Real Style: What are your best tips for caring for an engagement ring?

Amy: Given the sentimental and financial value of your diamond, buy insurance! You’ll want to protect yourself in case of loss, damage or theft of your ring. Try to minimize the amount of wear and tear you put your jewellery through. It’s a good idea to remove your ring for sports, gardening and baking (cookie dough can be a sticky mess!). Just remember to always keep it in the same, safe location.

To keep your ring brilliant and shiny, let it soak in a solution of equal parts ammonia and warm water for 5-10 minutes. Then use a soft toothbrush to remove any oils or debris from the top and bottom of the setting. Rinse with warm water and pat dry with a lint-free cloth. Note: this tip is for diamond jewellery only.

Probably the most important tip for maintaining the integrity of your ring is to have it inspected by your jeweller at least once a year, twice is ideal. They’ll ensure that the stones are secure in their setting and suggest any necessary repairs. Plus, your ring will be cleaned and looking just like new!

Real Style: As a Canadian jeweller, have you noticed differences in Canadian and American engagement ring trends?

Amy: As far as ring styles go, Canadian and American trends are fairly comparable. I would say the major difference is that the availability of Canadian-mined diamonds is used as a selling point here in Canada. There is a much bigger marketing campaign pushing the fifth “C” (Canadian) that you just don’t see in the US. Ethical sourcing is of great concern across the board but the advertisement of Canadian-sourced diamonds is much more prevalent here.

Photos: Bijoux by Amy